Saturday, November 22, 2008

New favourites, old favourites, and snow

So it seems that I may have to eat my words (ha-ha) since things on the restaurant front have gone quite well this week.

Based on the strength of this review, I decided to organise a reconnaissance party to Olimpia Vendéglő. The main thing that caught my eye in the review was the fact that the menu changes daily, and that all you have to do is pick between 3 to 6 courses. No agonising over menus, which for an indecisive diner like me is godsend.

The best things about the evening:
- slivers of duck with spicy chickpeas
- duck liver with smoked fish and julienned mango
- a leisurely 3 1/2 hours spent eating 8 courses (the last two were thrown in)
- an informal, unpretentious atmosphere
- a quick taste of some lovely Tokaji wine as we were putting on our coats to leave

Not so great:
- it's not very conveniently located
- red wine that was on the pricey side for what it was

The total for 4 people, including beer and 2 and a bit bottles of wine = 46,000 HUF. I'll definitely be going back when I have visitors. Otherwise, it's not exactly the kind of meal I can afford to have on a regular basis.

Today I went to Kádár Étkezde which was packed as usual, with the waitresses squeezing effortlessly between tables with jugs of raspberry cordial, sólet, which most people seemed to be having, and warm greetings for everyone. Love that place, and nothing beats it when you're looking for friendly stodge surrounded by the chatter of families on a blustery cold day. And you don't leave smelling like zsíros zsír.

Afterwards we decided to walk up to Heroes' Square, not realising that it was having its own microclimate of a blizzard. As it pelted every which way onto us, it didn't occur to either of us to protect ourselves with the umbrellas we had because clearly you don't really get wet from snow ("...snowflakes that stay on my nose and eyelashes...")

To dry off we ducked into Lukács, which has been transformed into the less expensive cousin of the Four Seasons' coffee house. There was an art gallery of cakes but we limited ourselves to alcoholic teas. A classy joint for sure, perfect for tourists toting foreign currency.

The snow looks like it's sticking so it's a good thing the lomtalanítás collectors were here this morning to clear the streets of furniture, window panes, broken appliances etc. (exactly the items specified in the leaflet popped into our mailboxes NOT to put out on the street, though to be honest once you've gone through the list there's not much you can throw out). It's amazing that it only takes them a morning to sweep through the neighbourhood, leaving a sprinkling of metal and plastic for the dogs to pee on.

Sunday, November 16, 2008

OK, it's not that bad

Lately I've been feeling grouchy about being in Budapest. The food, the service, the ever pervasive dourness.

But this weekend was good. Saturday I explored some boutiques with sleek to retro designs, the best of which was Retrock Deluxe near Károlyi Kert. Then, in a mission to find red glass, we wandered around different art galleries/souvenir shops, marvelling at glass penguins and laughing at twee porcelain figurines.

Brunch today at Gerlóczy was an interesting couple of hours. Among the things I learnt was that when you say Jó reggelt (good morning) to someone and it's not dawn, you're considered a snob/aristocrat (whiling your morning away breakfasting in bed). Which explains why I always get deliberately enunciated Jó napots back at 9.30am.

Afterwards we went to the wamp market at Gödör where I got some Christmas pressies. That market gets better and better every time I go.

And finally, my latest latch song is the irrepressibly optimistic "You Can Have It All" by Yo La Tengo, complete with choreography. Enjoy!